Every movement, in food, in beer, in thought even, seems to be followed quickly by a counter-movement. For every person suddenly into molecular gastronomy, there's someone who starts a new restaurant making the very best versions of peasant food from 19th century and calling molecular gastronomy a gimmick. Brewery A brews nothing to style, uses hops by the barrel full, aging everything on oak. Brewery B across the streets revolts and creates only german style, traditional ales (though with local ingredients only, no imported spices or hops or wacky ingredients).
I love all beer. I think Stan Hieronymus over at Appellation Beer does too, but he makes some interesting points in this article where he quotes a bit from the Lord of Wacky Beer, Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head.
I tend to thing the best recipe for success is to be able to DO BOTH. If you can make a great traditional american pale, or a hefeweizen, or a dry irish stout, you'll probably also make a better Imperial IPA, a better spiced wheat beer, and a better imperial stout with oak, coffee, bourbon, and spruce. There's definitely a place for both. Food pairings work with the most traditional to the most obtuse of beers, and not every style works on Sunday afternoon watching football, or at home on the couch, with an artsy film and take out.